Washer and Dryer Deep Cleaning in Toronto: The Job That Quietly Prevents House Fires

The Etobicoke dryer that almost burned down the laundry room

An Etobicoke family called us on a Tuesday morning in February. The husband had been doing a load of towels the night before. Halfway through the dryer cycle, he had walked past the laundry room and noticed a faint burning smell. Not bad — just enough to be wrong. He opened the laundry room door and the smell got stronger. He stopped the dryer, pulled the lint trap, and a small mushroom-cloud of dust came out. The lint trap was clean. He cleaned it weekly. It had nothing on it.

He stood there for a minute, smelled the burning smell still coming from somewhere behind the dryer, and decided to do the thing nobody wants to do: he pulled the dryer forward away from the wall. The dryer vent duct — the flexible aluminum tube that runs from the back of the dryer to the exterior vent on the side of the house — was packed solid with eight years of lint. Not "needs to be cleaned" packed. Packed-solid packed. The kind of packed where you can't see daylight through any cross-section of the duct. The exterior vent flap on the side of the house had been jammed open by lint for so long that birds had built a nest in it the previous spring.

He called me the next morning. I want to be clear about what almost happened in that house: dryer vent fires are not theoretical. They are the single most common appliance-caused house fire in North America. The U.S. Fire Administration logs roughly 2,900 of them a year. Statistics Canada's numbers are smaller proportionally but similar in pattern. The cause is almost always the same: lint accumulates in the duct, the dryer's exhaust temperature rises because air can't move through the duct, and at some point the lint reaches its auto-ignition temperature.

The Etobicoke family did not have a fire. They had a smell, they noticed it, they pulled the dryer forward, and they called a professional. They were a half-step away from a problem they would have remembered for the rest of their lives.

We did the full washer and dryer deep clean over two days. Day one was the dryer: vent duct vacuumed out from both ends (we hire a Toronto duct cleaning specialist for the duct itself; we do everything else), inside of the dryer drum cleaned, behind and under the dryer cleaned, the exterior vent flap freed and the bird nest removed, the lint screen housing vacuumed (the lint accumulates inside the housing, below the screen, in places most people never see), and a new flexible-duct extension installed. Day two was the washer: front-load gasket scrubbed with hydrogen peroxide, the soap dispenser drawer removed and scrubbed (this is where most washer odour actually comes from), a hot-water cycle with washing-machine cleaner, the drain pump filter pulled and emptied, and the back of the washer pulled out to clean behind it.

After we were done, the husband's loads dried in 35 minutes instead of 70. His energy bills dropped roughly 12 percent the following month — the dryer was just doing its job efficiently again. He sent me a follow-up text six months later: "Still drying in 35. Still no burning smell. Still alive."

This guide is the protocol. Washer/dryer cleaning is the most under-prioritized appliance maintenance task in Toronto homes, and it is genuinely the highest-stakes one. We will walk through what changes about washers and dryers as they accumulate residue, the safety case for dryer vent cleaning specifically, the step-by-step protocol we use, the products that work, the products that don't, and the maintenance schedule that keeps you safe between deep cleans.

If you want context on how this fits into other appliance deep cleaning, our oven deep cleaning guide covers the kitchen-side equivalent, and our deep cleaning vs regular cleaning guide walks through how appliance cleaning fits into a whole-home maintenance schedule.

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Why washers and dryers need their own scope of work

A washer and a dryer get used multiple times per week in most Toronto households. They handle wet fabric, detergent, fabric softener, hot air, lint, and (in many homes) pet hair. Three things happen to them over time that a regular cleaning service doesn't typically address:

Biofilm growth in the washer. Front-load washing machines especially develop a layer of bacterial and mould growth on the rubber door gasket and inside the drum. Even high-efficiency (HE) detergent residue accumulates in the same areas, and the residue feeds the biofilm. The result is the well-known "front-loader smell" that most Toronto households eventually notice — a musty, slightly sour odour that comes out of the washer even when it's empty.

Lint accumulation outside the lint trap. The lint trap catches roughly 70 percent of the lint a load produces. The other 30 percent goes past the trap into the dryer's internal lint housing, into the dryer vent duct, and (eventually) into the exterior vent on the side of your house. Over years, that 30 percent compounds into the kind of accumulation that caused the Etobicoke near-miss.

Mineral deposits from Toronto water. Toronto water has medium hardness — not extreme, but high enough that calcium and magnesium deposits build up on the heating elements of both appliances over time. In the washer, this shows up as efficiency loss and white film on dark clothes. In the dryer, it accumulates on the moisture sensors (the metal bars inside the drum) and makes auto-sensor cycles run longer than they should.

A regular weekly clean doesn't touch any of this. A deep clean covers exterior surfaces and maybe the door gasket but rarely the internal mechanics. A proper washer/dryer deep clean is its own job — different tools, different chemistry, and a different time budget than the other parts of a deep clean.

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The dryer fire problem, in plain language

I want to spend a few paragraphs on this because the safety case matters more than the cleanliness case.

Dryer fires happen when three conditions come together: lint accumulates in the vent duct, exhaust air can't escape efficiently, and the dryer's heating element keeps cycling on to reach the temperature the cycle is calling for. Lint is highly flammable. The duct gets hotter than designed because air isn't moving. At some point a thermal limiter trips or, if the limiter has failed (which happens with age), the lint ignites.

The warning signs that your dryer vent is becoming a fire risk:

• Loads take longer than they used to. A typical load that used to take 45 minutes now takes 70.
• The dryer feels hot to the touch on the outside of the machine, not just on the drum.
• The laundry room is unusually warm or humid after a cycle.
• You smell burning lint during or after a cycle.
• The exterior dryer vent flap on the outside of your house doesn't move when the dryer is running — air isn't getting out.
• Clothes come out hotter than usual at the end of a cycle.
• The dryer trips the breaker more than once a month. Any single one of those is worth investigating. Two of them is reason to stop using the dryer until the vent is cleaned.

The Toronto Fire Services recommends professional dryer vent cleaning every 1 to 2 years for most households, and every 6 to 12 months for households that do more than five loads of laundry per week. Our default recommendation: book a professional duct cleaning every 18 months. It's typically $150 to $300 in the GTA and it's one of the highest-ROI home-maintenance dollars you'll spend.

We do not do the duct cleaning ourselves — it requires specialized equipment (a long flexible brush + a powerful vacuum that runs from outside) — but every washer/dryer deep clean we do includes a referral to a Toronto duct cleaning specialist we trust if you need one.

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The Clean Papi washer/dryer deep cleaning protocol

Two cleaners, 3 to 6 hours depending on what's involved. Here's the actual order.

Step 1: Pull both appliances away from the wall

Before any cleaning, both the washer and dryer need to come forward away from the wall. This is the single highest-leverage step in the whole job. Most of the dirt, mould, and lint that matters is hidden behind the appliances and on the floor underneath them.

For most Toronto households, the washer and dryer are side-by-side in a laundry room or laundry closet. They're heavy — typically 150 to 250 pounds each for full-size — but they roll relatively easily on the floor once the water and dryer connections are loose enough to allow movement.

Important: for gas dryers, the gas line stays connected unless you have specific training to disconnect it. We never disconnect a gas line. The dryer just slides forward a foot or two — enough to clean behind it — without touching the gas line.

For stacked units (common in Toronto condos), the protocol is the same but the work is harder. We don't unstack — that's a job for a specialist or the appliance technician. We clean the accessible faces and edges, vacuum what we can reach, and recommend a stacked-unit-specific cleaning schedule.

Step 2: Clean behind, underneath, and the wall behind both appliances

With the appliances forward, the floor and walls behind them are exposed for the first time in (typically) several years.

• HEPA-vacuum the floor. Expect significant dust, lint that escaped the dryer system, sometimes coins, and occasionally pet toys.
• HEPA-vacuum the dryer's external vent connection point. Where the dryer's exhaust port meets the flexible vent duct is a major lint-accumulation zone.
• Wipe the wall behind both appliances with damp microfibre and non-scented multipurpose cleaner. Detergent residue and dust have built up here.
• Check the water supply hoses behind the washer. Hot and cold. Look for any sign of corrosion, leaking, or weakness. Toronto households should replace these every 5 to 7 years — they're the single most common source of laundry-room flooding. We don't replace them ourselves (it's a quick plumber job) but we'll flag if yours look due.
• Check the dryer vent connection for clear airflow. With the dryer running on air-only (no heat), you should be able to feel strong air exiting the exterior vent on the side of the house.

Step 3: The dryer deep clean

After the floor and wall behind, the dryer itself gets the full treatment.

Inside the drum:

• HEPA-vacuum every fold of the door seal.
• Wipe the drum interior with a damp microfibre and a small amount of distilled white vinegar. Vinegar dissolves softener residue and helps eliminate odours.
• Wipe the door interior glass.
• Check the moisture sensor bars (two metal strips inside the drum). Wipe them clean with the vinegar microfibre. Mineral buildup here makes auto-sensor cycles inaccurate. The lint trap and housing:
• Remove the lint screen entirely.
• HEPA-vacuum down into the lint screen housing (the slot where the screen sits). Lint accumulates below where you can see. Use the crevice tool. Sometimes a flexible vacuum extension is needed.
• Wash the lint screen itself with hot soapy water if it has visible residue (dryer sheets and fabric softener build up a film on the screen that reduces airflow). Rinse, dry completely before replacing.
• Inspect the lint screen for tears or damage. A torn screen lets more lint past into the vent system. The blower wheel and lint compartment (where applicable):
• Some newer dryers have an accessible second lint compartment near the bottom of the machine. If yours does, open it, HEPA-vacuum it.
• The blower wheel itself is inside the dryer cabinet. We don't open the cabinet — that's a job for an appliance technician or a dryer vent cleaning specialist with the proper tools. But we vacuum what's accessible from outside. The exterior of the dryer:
• Top, sides, control panel.
• Door — both interior and exterior, including the door gasket.
• Power cord and any visible electrical connections wiped (carefully — turn off the breaker first if you're going to clean live electrical connections). The dryer vent duct:
• Inspect the flexible aluminum or rigid metal duct that connects the back of the dryer to the wall.
• HEPA-vacuum what's accessible from the dryer end with the crevice tool.
• If the duct is the flexible plastic / foil accordion type, recommend replacement. Flexible foil ducts are now considered a fire hazard in most North American building codes. Rigid metal or semi-rigid aluminum is the modern standard.
• If the duct hasn't been professionally cleaned in 18+ months, recommend booking a professional duct cleaning. We have referrals. The exterior vent (on the side of the house):
• The flap should move freely.
• No bird nest, no debris, no lint cap.
• If the flap is jammed, clean it. If it's broken, recommend replacement.

Step 4: The washing machine deep clean

The washer has more chemistry going on than the dryer, and the cleaning protocol is correspondingly more nuanced.

The door gasket (front-load washers):

• This is where 80 percent of washer odour originates. The rubber gasket has multiple folds and weep holes that trap detergent, fabric softener, and water — perfect biofilm conditions.
• HEPA-vacuum any visible lint, hair, or debris.
• Spray the gasket with a 50/50 white vinegar + water solution. Let sit 5 minutes.
• Wipe with a microfibre. Use a toothbrush in the folds.
• For visible mould (black spots in the folds), apply 3% hydrogen peroxide directly. Let sit 10 minutes. Scrub with a toothbrush. Rinse.
• Some severely-moulded gaskets need a second pass.
• Lift the gasket and check the weep holes underneath. Vacuum any debris.
• Dry the gasket thoroughly before closing the door. The soap dispenser drawer:
• Almost always the second source of washer odour.
• Pull the drawer out completely (most are removable — check your manual).
• Soak in hot water + dish soap for 15 minutes.
• Scrub every compartment with a brush.
• Inspect the dispenser housing (where the drawer slides in). Mould and detergent residue accumulate inside the housing. Wipe with vinegar microfibre.
• Dry the drawer completely before reinstalling. The drum interior:
• Wipe with a damp microfibre and vinegar.
• Check the rubber lifters (the paddles inside the drum). For top-load washers, these don't exist. For front-load washers, they accumulate residue and sometimes hide small items. The cleaning cycle:
• Run a hot-water cleaning cycle with either a commercial washing machine cleaner (Affresh, OxiClean, etc.) or 2 cups of distilled white vinegar.
• Use the "Tub Clean" or "Clean Washer" setting if your machine has one. Otherwise the longest hot-water cycle available.
• For severely odorous washers, run two consecutive cleaning cycles. The drain pump filter:
• Most front-load washers have an accessible drain pump filter behind a small panel near the bottom front of the machine. Check your manual.
• Place a shallow tray on the floor — water will come out.
• Unscrew the filter slowly. Drain the water.
• Pull the filter out. Clean off debris (typically lint, hair, coins, paper-clip-sized objects).
• Rinse the filter under running water.
• Reinstall.
• This step is the most-skipped maintenance task on the entire appliance and the most common cause of "my washer won't drain" service calls. Doing it every 3 to 6 months prevents 90 percent of those service calls. The detergent intake hose (where the soap moves from the drawer into the drum):
• Often accessible from inside the dispenser housing. Some Toronto plumbers will not touch it; we don't disassemble it either. If the housing has visible residue or mould, run a vinegar-only cleaning cycle through the dispenser drawer to flush it. The water inlet filters:
• At the back of the washer where the hot and cold supply hoses connect, there are small screens inside the inlet ports. These filter sediment from the water supply.
• Turn off the water supply valves.
• Disconnect the hoses (have a towel ready).
• Pull out the small mesh filters from the inlet ports with needle-nose pliers.
• Rinse the filters under running water.
• Reinstall.
• This is a 10-minute job that solves about a third of "my washer fills slowly" complaints. The exterior of the washer:
• Top, sides, control panel, door (inside and outside).

Step 5: The laundry room itself

Beyond the appliances, the laundry room is its own micro-cleaning project:

• The floor under and around the appliances — already done in step 2.
• The walls — wiped with damp microfibre.
• Any storage shelves — emptied, vacuumed, wiped, restocked.
• The utility sink (if there is one) — Bar Keepers Friend on the sink, drain checked, taps polished.
• The floor drain (if there is one) — debris cleared, splash test for proper drainage.
• The lint catcher on the wall vent (if you have one) — many Toronto laundry rooms have a small lint trap on the wall. Cleaned.
• The ironing board, hanging rack, drying rack — wiped.
• Any exhaust fan in the laundry room ceiling — cover popped, vacuumed inside, cover washed.

Step 6: Restock and reset

• Both appliances pushed back into place.
• Hoses reattached, water turned back on, dryer vent reconnected.
• Detergent, fabric softener, dryer sheets reorganized.
• Door of the washer left open (or cracked) to allow the gasket to dry between loads — this is the single highest-leverage thing you can do to prevent gasket mould from returning.
• Dryer lint screen replaced.
• One short test cycle on each appliance to confirm everything is working and there are no leaks.

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Products and tools — what works, what doesn't

Three products do 90 percent of the work on a washer/dryer deep clean:

White vinegar (distilled). Dissolves detergent residue, fabric softener buildup, and mineral deposits. Mild antibacterial. Safe on rubber, plastic, and metal. Smells strong when concentrated but the smell vents fast and leaves no residue.

Hydrogen peroxide (3%). Kills mould and bacteria on contact. Safe on most rubber gaskets but test in a hidden spot first if your gasket is older or coloured. Bleaches some fabrics — keep it off clothing.

Baking soda. Mild abrasive for scrubbing stubborn residue. Pairs with vinegar for a fizzing reaction that lifts buildup from rubber and plastic. Safe everywhere.

Plus the standard Clean Papi tools:

• Bissell HEPA vacuum with crevice tool.

• Microfibre cloths (the same colour-coded set we use on every job).

• A toothbrush for the gasket folds.

• A flexible vacuum extension for the lint screen housing. Things we don't use on washers and dryers:

• Bleach inside the washer. Some manufacturers explicitly warn against it. It degrades rubber gaskets over time. Vinegar + hydrogen peroxide accomplishes the same odour-elimination without the rubber damage.

• Heavily scented cleaners. The washer drum is supposed to be neutral. Anything you spray inside will end up on the next load of clothes.

• Steam cleaners on electrical components. The Waitbird steam cleaner is amazing on grout and floors but stays away from washer control panels and dryer heating elements.

• Abrasive scrubbers on stainless drums or porcelain exteriors. Scratches retain residue and become permanent.

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Maintenance schedule between deep cleans

Once your washer and dryer are reset, here's the maintenance cadence that keeps them clean for the long term.

After every load:

• Wipe the front-load washer gasket with a dry cloth. Leave the door open to dry.
• Empty the dryer lint trap. (Yes, every load. Not "every few loads.") Weekly:
• Run a damp cloth through the soap dispenser drawer.
• Quick wipe of the washer exterior. Monthly:
• Hot-water cleaning cycle in the washer (vinegar or commercial cleaner).
• Pull the dryer lint screen, wash with hot soapy water, fully dry, replace.
• HEPA-vacuum down into the lint screen housing. Quarterly:
• Clean the washer drain pump filter.
• Wipe behind both appliances (without pulling them all the way out — just enough to reach).
• Check the water supply hoses and the dryer vent connection. Every 6-12 months:
• Full washer/dryer deep clean (this guide).
• Replace the dryer's flexible vent duct if it's the foil accordion type. Every 12-24 months:
• Professional dryer vent duct cleaning.
• Inspect the water supply hoses; replace if older than 5 years. If you follow that cadence, you'll likely never need a service call for either appliance for the duration of normal appliance life (10-15 years for the washer, 13-18 years for the dryer in most cases).

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How we price washer/dryer cleaning Toronto

Same model as all of our work: time + materials + 35 percent margin, estimate is a ceiling. Full pricing transparency on our pricing page or talk to us at cleanpapi.ca/booking.

Rough numbers:

• Standalone washer/dryer deep clean only: $200 to $400. 2.5 to 4 hours, one cleaner. Includes everything in this guide except the dryer vent duct (which we don't do — separate referral).
• Add-on washer/dryer deep clean (as part of a larger deep clean booking): $120 to $250. Same scope, slightly lower price because we're already in the home.
• Laundry room deep clean (everything in the laundry room beyond the appliances): $80 to $160. Floor, walls, shelves, sink, vent.
• Stacked unit clean: standard pricing but expect the upper end due to access limitations. Dryer vent duct cleaning: we refer to a Toronto specialist. Typical pricing $150 to $300, sometimes higher for long runs or roof-vented setups.

For comparison, a full kitchen deep clean (oven + stove + fridge + cabinets + counters) typically runs $400 to $900 — our oven deep cleaning guide walks through that scope.

For the time-and-materials model in general, see our how to hire a house cleaner guide.

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Toronto-specific quirks

A few things that come up more in the GTA than elsewhere.

Condo vs. house laundry layouts. Most Toronto condos have stacked washer/dryer units in a closet or alcove. Houses have side-by-side setups in a dedicated laundry room or basement. The cleaning protocol is the same; access is what varies. Condo stacked units take 25-40 percent more time because you can't pull them apart.

Dryer venting in older Toronto homes. Pre-1970 Toronto homes sometimes have dryer ducts that exit through the basement window or basement wall rather than properly vented through an exterior side wall. These setups can be functional but are often less efficient and more prone to lint buildup at the bend. If you have one, the vent service is worth doing more often.

Toronto water hardness. Medium hardness. Mineral deposits build up on washing machine heating elements and dryer moisture sensors over 5-7 years. Descale cycles (vinegar or commercial descaler) every 6 months keep this in check.

Condo declaration restrictions. Some Toronto condo buildings explicitly prohibit certain washer cleaning chemicals (anything aerosolized, anything with strong fragrance) because the building exhaust shares with neighbouring units. We use non-scented cleaners throughout, so this is rarely an issue for us. Our Toronto condo cleaning guide goes into the vendor-access side of condo work.

Winter laundry-room dampness. Toronto winter laundry rooms (especially in basements and on north-facing walls) get cold and damp. That accelerates mould growth on washer gaskets. In winter, do the gasket wipe-after-every-load religiously. Or move the gasket maintenance up to weekly hot-water cycles.

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When to call us vs. when to call an appliance technician

A short heuristic.

Call us for:

• Smelly washer.
• Front-load washer gasket mould.
• Dryer that takes longer than it used to.
• Lint screen housing buildup.
• General laundry room deep clean.
• Routine maintenance schedule setup. Call an appliance technician for:
• Washer that won't drain after the drain-pump-filter is clear.
• Washer that won't spin.
• Washer that vibrates aggressively or "walks" across the floor.
• Dryer that doesn't heat at all.
• Dryer that trips the breaker repeatedly.
• Error codes on the display.
• Visible water leaks during cycles. Call a duct cleaning specialist for:
• Dryer vent that hasn't been cleaned in 18+ months.
• Visible lint at the exterior vent.
• Burning smell coming from behind the dryer.
• Confirmation that your venting is up to current code. Call a plumber for:
• Water supply hose replacement.
• Drain line backup not solved by the drain pump filter.
• Laundry sink slow drain.
• Gas line work for gas dryers.

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Frequently asked questions about washer and dryer cleaning in Toronto

How much does professional washer and dryer cleaning cost in Toronto?

For a standalone washer/dryer deep clean, expect $200 to $400 (2.5 to 4 hours, one cleaner). As an add-on to a larger deep clean booking, $120 to $250. Stacked condo units run toward the upper end due to access limitations. Pricing is time + materials + 35 percent margin and the estimate is a ceiling.

How often should I deep clean my washer and dryer?

Every 6 to 12 months for the deep clean (this protocol). Plus monthly maintenance (hot-water cleaning cycle, lint screen housing vacuum) and after-every-load habits (wipe gasket, empty lint trap, leave door cracked). Dryer vent duct cleaning by a specialist every 18 to 24 months.

Why does my front-load washer smell musty?

The most common cause is biofilm growth on the door gasket and detergent residue in the soap dispenser drawer. The fix is a full gasket clean with vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, a soap dispenser drawer scrub, and a hot-water cleaning cycle. Leave the washer door cracked between loads to let the gasket dry — this prevents the problem from returning.

How do I know if my dryer vent is dangerous?

Five warning signs: loads take significantly longer than they used to, the dryer feels hot to the touch on the outside (not just the drum), the laundry room is unusually humid after a cycle, you smell burning lint, or the exterior vent flap doesn't move when the dryer runs. Any one of these is reason to investigate. Two or more is reason to stop using the dryer until the vent is cleaned.

Do you clean the dryer vent duct itself?

No — that requires specialized equipment (a long flexible brush, a powerful vacuum operating from outside). We clean everything around the duct (inside the dryer, the lint screen housing, behind the dryer, the exterior vent flap) and refer to a Toronto duct cleaning specialist for the duct itself. We have referrals if you need them.

Can I use bleach to clean my washer?

We don't recommend it. Some manufacturers warn against bleach because it degrades the rubber gasket and door seals over time. Vinegar plus hydrogen peroxide accomplishes the same odour elimination without rubber damage. If you must use bleach, run a follow-up vinegar cycle to neutralize the chlorine residue before doing laundry.

What's the right detergent type for my washer?

For front-load and high-efficiency (HE) top-load washers, use HE-formulated detergent only. Regular detergent produces too many suds for HE machines and causes residue buildup. Use less detergent than you think — most Toronto households use 2 to 3 times more detergent than the manufacturer recommends, which is a major contributor to washer odour.

My dryer takes 70 minutes to dry a load. Is that normal?

Probably not. A typical full load should dry in 35 to 50 minutes on a properly-maintained dryer. If yours takes 70+, the most likely cause is restricted airflow — clogged lint screen, lint accumulated in the screen housing, or (most commonly) a lint-packed vent duct. Address the lint situation before assuming the dryer is broken.

Should I leave the washer door open between loads?

Yes — or at least cracked. Closing the door traps moisture inside the drum and on the gasket, which feeds mould growth. Leaving the door cracked (an inch is enough) allows air circulation and dries the interior. This single habit prevents most front-load washer odour.

Is washer/dryer cleaning worth the cost if I do laundry myself?

Yes for two reasons. First, energy savings: a properly cleaned dryer runs 30-50 percent shorter cycles, which adds up to meaningful gas or electric savings over a year. Second, fire prevention: dryer vent fires are the most common appliance-caused house fire in North America. The deep clean plus a referral for vent cleaning is the cheapest fire prevention you can buy.

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What to do next

If your dryer is taking longer than it used to, if your washer smells, or if neither appliance has been deep-cleaned in over a year, book a washer/dryer deep clean. Two cleaners, 3 to 6 hours, $200 to $400 for the standalone job.

Book at cleanpapi.ca/booking or see pricing for ballpark estimates by service. Tell us your washer type (front-load vs top-load vs stacked), the brand, approximate age, and any specific issues (smell, vibration, long cycle times). We'll call within 24 hours with a written estimate.

If you're due for dryer vent cleaning specifically — which most Toronto households are — we'll refer you to a specialist. Don't put it off.

— Nathan, founder, Clean Papi

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Related Clean Papi services

• Regular cleaning
• Deep cleaning
• Move-in / move-out cleaning
• Post-construction cleaning
• Office & commercial cleaning
• See full pricing
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Internal links to other guides

• How to hire a house cleaner in Toronto
• Move-out cleaning checklist Toronto
• Deep cleaning vs regular cleaning
• Eco-friendly cleaning Toronto
• Toronto condo cleaning guide
• Post-renovation cleaning Toronto
• Airbnb cleaning Toronto
• Pet-owner cleaning guide
• Pre-listing cleaning Toronto
• Oven deep cleaning Toronto
• Spring cleaning checklist Toronto
• Move-in cleaning Toronto